Tasting note: Albert Boxler Riesling Grand Cru Sommerberg “D” 2008

This Alsace Riesling comes from a plot of 70 year old Riesling vines situated midslope on the east side of Grand Cru Sommerberg right behind the village of Niedermorschwihr in Alsace, France. The soil here is granite mixed with some sandstone. This plot called Dudenstein is characterised by a warm microclimate which often gives “D” an off-dry character. Not so in 2008. Residual sugar levels are 6 gr./L., with total acidity of 9.8 gr./L., and 14.2 % alcohol. This means the 2008 is a fully dry wine.

And what a wine this is. It is approaching 10 years of age, and is certainly drinking well now. But I expect it has at least another 10-15 years life left in it. Light gold in colour, with a nose of lemon and a hint of petrol so typical of mature Riesling. In the mouth the party really starts. Very complex and refined, with citrus, ripe red apple, and even some peach. It is very concentrated, and around mid-palate an amazing acidity starts to build. It combines with a very noticeable minerality/salinity, and cumulates in a very long and dry finish that is characterised by beautiful red grapefruit flavours.

I honestly don’t think Riesling gets much better than this. I feel privileged and lucky to have 12 (now 11) bottles in my cellar. I will post on the development of this wine here on this blog over the next years.

Is Albert Boxler my favourite Riesling producer in Alsace? Maybe, but then it makes me think of Zind-Humbrecht’s Grand Cru Rangen, or Rolly Gassmann’s SGN’s. All different, all great.

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