The style of Rolly Gassmann’s wines is one of richness or even opulence. This delicious Riesling from a lieu-dit on alkaline Muschelkalk soils (clay-silt on fossil-rich limestone marl-limestone) between the Alsace villages of Rorschwihr and Rodern is no exception. It is actually very close to a Vendange Tardive (late harvest) style, or Spätlese if it was produced across the border in Germany. Lovely candied citrus (lime and grapefruit) scents, with the faintest hint of petrol so typical of mature Riesling. There is even a whiff on honey, suggesting some of the grapes might have been affected with noble rot (botrytis). The taste is big, rich, and honeyed, with flavours of lemon curd and ripe stonefuits. But the sweetness is well balanced with ample acidity, and the length is very long. This wine really benefitted from on hour or so of breathing. Next time I will decant this. Even though this is nine years old it is still very fresh and lively. I don’t think it will improve much, but it will certainly last for another five years at this peak, before it will slowly decline when the acidity slowly decreases.

I had this with a glazed ham and roasted root vegetables. This was an excellent combination. But it would also work well with Goan fish curries or Turbot in creamy sauces. It is just lovely by itself too.

Harvey Nichols (www.harveynichols.com) and Berry Bros. & Rudd (www.bbr.com) currently sell the 2010 vintage. Unfortunately the 2009 is not for sale in the UK any longer. But I can assure you, the 2010 is excellent too and I will post a tasting note of that vintage soon.